If you’re using a Windows 10 laptop at anything other than the default scaling factor for your display, you may encounter an issue where closing the lid causes your window positions and sizes to be forgotten. I discovered this on my MacBook Pro Retina, which I run at 100% scaling (the default is 200%). This may also apply on Windows 8.1, but I haven’t tried it on this hardware. Continue reading “Windows 10 DPI scaling and window positioning issues on laptops”
It’s rather tricky to get Windows 10 onto a WinBook TW700, between WIMBoot’s inefficiency, the inability to delete things from the preload, and the limited storage available on a TW700, so I thought I’d write this quick guide on how to get the device updated. These instructions should work on any WIMBoot device – or, for that matter, any Windows 8.1 Update (and possibly earlier versions of Windows, I’m not sure if Win10 will run from 8.0 or 8.1 pre-Update) device that’s short on space. Please note that your profile and apps will NOT be migrated – I’d use User State Migration Tool, from Windows 10’s Assessment and Deployment Kit, to save profiles, and then restore them after you have the device reloaded. I’ve not used USMT in quite a few years, though.
Following this procedure will result in the loss of all data and applications on the device, and I will not be held responsible for data loss as a result. You are responsible for ensuring that you can get everything restored.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Two USB thumb drives of 8 GiB or larger capacity (one of these may not be necessary)
- A MicroSD card or a third USB thumb drive of 8 GiB or larger capacity
- A USB hub, keyboard, and mouse (shouldn’t be necessary, but it’s useful in case something goes wrong)
Here’s the procedure that I followed in a nutshell:
- Create a USB recovery drive and put it in a safe place. This will allow you to go back to the factory preload at any time. This is a good practice even if you plan on staying on Windows 8.1.
- Reset your PC (Microsoft directions, go to “Remove everything and reinstall Windows”). This is necessary to get free space back.
- When the Out-of-Box Experience comes up, connect to a wireless network, but do not log in using a Microsoft account (you don’t want any OneDrive data downloaded), and disable Windows Update (you do not want updates taking up the storage space you just freed).
- Use the Media Creation Tool on another Windows machine to create a install USB drive for Windows 10 Home 32-bit English (US), then connect that USB drive to the tablet and run setup.exe on it. You may not need to do this, it may be possible to use the Media Creation Tool’s ability to update the computer it’s running on, but I played it safe.
- The Windows 10 installer will mention that you need more space to install. Either use a USB hub to connect another thumb drive, or insert a MicroSD card, and select that drive in the installer.
- I personally chose to change the settings that would have migrated my profile and apps, and chose to only install the OS. This one’s up to you, though.
- Proceed to wait a while, while Windows 10 is installed. There may be a few points where the device freezes during boot, just shut the device off by holding the power button down, then release the power button, wait 5 seconds, and press it again, it will proceed normally.
- Go through the Out-of-Box Experience and adjust settings to your liking. Once this is complete, the device may be sluggish for a while, as it’s performing a lot of background tasks (updates, driver installations, and the like). Let it complete these before continuing.
- Delete your previous version of Windows. Why keep it around, when it’s just the preload missing the software that came with it, and you’ve got a thumb drive with the USB recovery drive?
- Somewhere along the way, a driver update will have happened, and Windows will have decided to run at 125% zoom. If you like this, leave it alone. If you don’t, go to Settings, System, Display, and change the size of text, apps, and other items to 100%. Do note that Modern UI apps are rendered smaller than in Windows 8 (and currently don’t appear to respect the system scaling setting), and Universal apps tend to have smaller UI elements than Modern UI apps did in Windows 8. However, Win32 apps are rendered the same at 100% as in Windows 8. This one’s up to personal preference, really.
That’s all there is to it. (Well, there may need to be a Bluetooth driver update, I haven’t checked that fully yet…) There’s still some glitches in Win10 (the on-screen keyboard only really works the way it did before when in a Universal app – Modern UI apps at 100% don’t quite behave right, and Win32 apps don’t move out of the way at all), but generally, things should work. And, it’s faster, lower RAM usage, and lower disk usage than before (Win10 has a much better compression mechanism).
So, Micro Center is selling Windows 8.1 tablets for $60. No, really. That includes a Windows license, a quad core Atom (that’s right, this isn’t even RT), an IPS display, and a friggin’ Office 365 Personal license (even with rights to install on a desktop or laptop)! Now, it does only have 1 GiB RAM, and worse, only 16 GiB of eMMC, so there were corners cut. However, even with those limitations, the price really does seem a bit too good to be true.
Then again, it’s only $60, and Micro Center does take returns (and there are plenty of open box units for $48, although I strongly suggest avoiding those for a couple of reasons), so… I ultimately couldn’t resist (if nothing else, it’ll be a decent device for running the excellent VCDS Volkswagen diagnostic tool by Ross-Tech), and I’m typing this post on it. Continue reading “WinBook TW700 first impressions, survival guide”
Putting some quick notes up regarding configuration of a MikroTik device to behave like a consumer router, where accessing the router from inside accesses the router, and accessing the WAN IP from either inside or outside accesses an internal host via port forwarding. Continue reading “Configuring MikroTik RouterOS’s firewall, NAT, and DNS to act like a consumer router”
So, I finished resurrecting my mainframe the other day.
When I was in Kansas City for KansasFest, I bought an RS/6000 7011-250, which uses the smallest chassis capable of holding 32-bit MCA cards that IBM ever produced – for comparison, I’d say it’s about the size of a Quadro 610 or Power Mac 6100, albeit a bit deeper. (It was also the first PowerPC machine ever produced (predating the PowerPC Macs by a few months), using a 66 or (in my machine) 80 MHz CPU.) This allowed me to physically downsize the machine significantly with minimal loss in functionality.
I installed the P/390 card set and installed AIX while at KansasFest, but was unable to get the mainframe actually running for several reasons. Ended up putting the project on hold for various reasons (including building the Mimeo).
Lately, decided to get back at it. Continue reading “The latest incarnation of my mainframe”
I’ve wanted to try Matias’s new keyswitches since I’ve heard of their release, and finally, decided to go ahead and get a Tactile Pro 4, as my local Micro Center had them in stock.
Matias has developed their own clone, the Matias Click switch, of the Alps SKCM tactile keyboard switch (specifically, the simplified white version), and installed it in their long-running (Mac-optimized) Tactile Pro series, creating the Tactile Pro 4. The previous model, the Tactile Pro 3, used Fuhua switches, and in my opinion, these switches had downright terrible quality. They’ve also cloned the SKCM cream switch, which had rubber damping, as the Matias Quiet Click switch, and are using it in the new Quiet Pro keyboard, although I’m not reviewing that switch.
So, I don’t typically review keyboards on this blog, and I’m not sure why I haven’t. So, here goes. Continue reading “Matias Tactile Pro 4 keyboard review”
Decided to build the AC side of the power supply today. Powered on, voltages looked good, no magic smoke, nothing getting hot.
That went well, so I decided to stuff the video section and power it on again. (Pardon the filthy monitor, I had to grab an old clunker from my storage unit, I didn’t want to risk the Dell 2001FP, nor did I expect it to take that signal well.)
Clearing the video had an interesting problem, though – once I removed the clear jumper and the video returned, the underscores went away, but the blinking @ signs didn’t!
Anyway, I decided to continue onto the processor section – the video section behaving like that was actually promising, because it was almost all working.
Resetting the processor showed that it was definitely working, and the video section was even responding to the processor section – a line of @ signs would get replaced by slashes, for instance.
With a study of the schematic, I decided to figure out what would cause this problem… and decided to swap the 2504 that holds cursor position with one of the ones that holds character bits. Sure enough, the problem moved:
So, I now have a working(ish) Apple-1 clone. Tomorrow’s project will be to put the finishing touches on the board – solder the slot connector on, solder jumpers for the cassette interface and BASIC RAM, install the ACI, and celebrate (even though that shift register needs replaced).
The project won’t be done, though (and the computer won’t really be usable until some of this is done, and it definitely won’t be safe due to the AC section being exposed) – I need to get a keyboard encoder (waiting on a solution for that one), get a slot expander, wait for the CFFA1 to arrive, and work on my case (which will be a stained oak base, with 4″ aluminum standoffs supporting a plexiglas top above the board and power supply, and a plexi case around the AC section of the power supply). Also, I’ll do a similar, much smaller case for the ][ Plus keyboard.
I know, it’s an out of focus cell phone shot, but I’ve already got it drying after cleaning the flux, and don’t want to take another shot.
Resolution on the capacitor issue was simply going ahead and using the supplied caps, as they should not negatively (and may positively) affect function, and will only negatively affect authenticity, of which this has none anyway, so…
Yes, I got the top 2400 µF cap so that you can’t read the printing on it. Purely a cosmetic issue, kicking myself for doing it, and I caught it too late to easily fix it. (I could obviously fix it now, but it’d generally be a pain, and some of that is on the ground plane section of the power supply, which is a bear. Not as bad as the 7905’s ground section, but bad.)
Plan for tomorrow: build the AC side of the power supply (that is, wire up the transformers), and go for first power up to test the power supply section.
All sockets are in, so I’m to chapter 2, step 10 of the assembly guide – the installation of the seventeen 0.1 µF decoupling capacitors.
Here’s the problem: Unicorn shipped 1.0 µF caps. This matches the silkscreen on the PCB, but the Mimeo manual makes a point of mentioning that real Apple-1 computers used 0.1 µF instead. I could actually install the incorrect caps, and it’d probably be fine, but I’ll wait for Unicorn.
In any case, step 11 (installing the other six small caps) isn’t actually dependent on step 10, so I went ahead and did it. The next step is another power/ground short check, and while I could easily continue on (really, if I wanted to, all the way to initial power-up, because the decoupling caps aren’t a factor until I start stuffing chips in), I figure it’s best to stop here, so I don’t deviate too far from the manual (and then have more work to do to diagnose a fault if I do mess up).